French active ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy — the process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs — observed in menopausal skin.
Silab says a novel modelling study on menopausal skin revealed this deficiency. When ferritinophagy is impaired, cells lack bioavailable iron, a condition the company links to premature skin aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging. The effect is compounded by UV radiation, which favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes and can trigger a massive, uncontrolled release of iron, producing significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is designed to counter both problems. By relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, the active facilitates the provision of iron and restarts the main epidermal functions. At the same time, by reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. Silab states that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging.
Clinical observations reported by the company describe results from 14 days: the skin of Caucasian volunteers was revitalised, the skin barrier reinforced, and the complexion unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. In addition, when applied before UV exposure by Caucasian volunteers, the ingredient was found to prevent lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root sourcing and extraction
For Metallomia, Silab turned to the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has set up a traced supply chain with French partners, validated against the criteria of the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, a specific enzyme engineering process was developed to extract polyuronides.
The resulting ingredient is patented and recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. Supplied as an aqueous solution, it is described as easy to formulate. According to Silab, it complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and it meets international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.